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Tuesday, October 13, 2026Index last updated Oct 9
The Index  ·  Glycosaminoglycan

Hyaluronic acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Powerful humectant; molecular weight decides whether it sits on the surface or gets in.

ModerateSome controlled trials
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Written bytheskindex
Reviewed byNot yet reviewed
Last updated19 Sept 2026
Sources2 cited

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that binds many times its weight in water. In cosmetics it is nearly always the sodium salt, sodium hyaluronate, and the interesting variable is molecular weight.

The evidence

A 60-day study comparing 0.1 % HA creams at 50, 130, 300, 800 and 2000 kDa found all improved hydration and elasticity, with the 50 and 130 kDa fractions producing the largest reduction in wrinkle depth[1]. Reviews consistently support the hydration effect while noting that most trials are short and industry-funded[2].

Reality check

Most of the hydration comes from holding water at the surface. In very dry air, a humectant without an occlusive on top can pull water outward; pair with squalane or a ceramide cream. glycerin remains the cheaper, better-evidenced humectant.

Evidence by claim

Graded separately; the entry grade is the best-supported claim
Increases skin hydration and elasticity[1][2]
Moderate
Low-molecular-weight (50–130 kDa) fractions reduce wrinkle depth more than high-MW[1]
Limited

Safety & limits

Source and region, always
all — No restrictions. Very low-MW fragments (< 20 kDa) are pro-inflammatory in vitro; most cosmetic grades are larger. CA US EU UK

Sources · 2

Numbered as cited in the text
  1. [1]Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, et al.. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011)
  2. [2]Bukhari SNA, Roswandi NL, Waqas M, et al.. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2018)doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2018.09.188

Revision history

16 Sept 2026Entry createdTheSkindex Desk