Salicylic acid
Oil-soluble exfoliant with decades of acne data; capped at 2 % in EU leave-on products.
Salicylic acid is a lipophilic hydroxy acid, which is why it can work inside the sebum-filled follicle where water-soluble acids can't. It loosens corneocyte adhesion, has mild anti-inflammatory activity (it is the active metabolite of aspirin), and thins the follicular plug[3].
The evidence
Low-concentration daily use (0.5–2 %) reduces both comedonal and inflammatory acne lesions in controlled trials[1]. As a professional peel at 20–30 % it improves texture and post-inflammatory pigmentation[3].
Limits
The EU caps leave-on products at 2 % following the SCCS's 2019 review, which was driven by systemic exposure modelling rather than skin irritation[2]. Pair with niacinamide; alternate with retinol rather than layering.
Evidence by claim
Safety & limits
Sources · 3
- [1]Zander E, Weisman S. Treatment of acne vulgaris with salicylic acid pads. Clinical Therapeutics (1992)
- [2]Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS/1601/18). Opinion on salicylic acid (CAS 69-72-7) (2019)regulation
- [3]Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2015)doi:10.2147/CCID.S84765